Afghanistan’s archaeological and historical sites have been devastated from both fighting and looting. Most of the pillaged treasures are smuggled out of the country to Pakistan, where they are sold and then make their way to collectors across the world.
Last month we revealed the terrible fate of the Kabul Museum and the heroic efforts being made to save the surviving remnants (see The Art Newspaper, No.65, December 1996, pp.1-3). But damage to the sites which originally provided much of the museum’s collection has been equally severe. In compiling our survey, we are particularly indebted to the Pakistan-based society for the Preservation of Afghanistan’s Cultural Heritage. Their reports have been supplemented by eyewitness accounts from recent visitors to war-torn Afghanistan. Visiting the country is not easy, and frequently dangerous, so The Art Newspaper is very grateful for their assistance.
Our survey starts in the north, near the Tajikistan border, and moves south towards Pakistan:
Ai Khanum. The most easterly Greek city (4th-2nd century BC) is being systematically pillaged. The eastern part of the site has been levelled by bulldozers, to facilitate the digging, and loading ramps have been built for trucks which then remove the earth. Photographs taken late last year show that the huge mound is criss-crossed with a grid of illegal excavation pits. One informed source told us that looting is being done “with the authority of local officials”. Marble from the ancient city is used as building material for a mosque and houses for mujahideen commanders.
Telia Tepe. The Bactrian burial mounds (1st century BC-1st century AD) yielded spectacular gold treasures in the late 1970s. Other nearby graves are said to have been looted in the past few years. Gold rings and cups which are similar to those originally excavated at Telia Tepe have been reported in the bazaars of northern Afghanistan and Peshwar.
Balkh. The Citadel (pre-13th century) has been badly damaged by looters who have used mechanical diggers. One recent visitor told us: “Commanders of the military posts stationed around the walls and civilian officials have a hand in the antiquities business.” It appears that the looters may have made a discovery which evaded French archaeologists who had searched since the 1920s for the original Greek city (1st century). Fluted columns which have been recently dug up could well be from this period. The ancient 2nd century Tepe Zagaran (Hill of the Gold Dealers) has been extensively dug over in the past two years, with looters exposing staircases, wells and architectural features. Our contact reports that last year he was shown jewellery being sold by the illegal excavators.
Tashqurghan. Until recently this was one of the earliest surviving covered bazaars in Central Asia (17th century). It was almost entirely destroyed two years ago by shell and tank fire, during heavy fighting between the Uzbek warlord Dostum and Hisb-i Islami militia. The bazaar has now been totally abandoned.
Begram. The site of the famous Begram ivories (2nd century) is feared to have been looted. It lies close to a large military airbase, and the area, twenty miles north of Kabul, is now in disputed territory being fought over by Junbesh militia and the Taliban.
Bamiyan. The two colossal Buddhas (5th-6th century) cut out of the rock, the largest standing 180 feet high, still survive intact, although the surrounding hills are mined. The nearby monastic cells have been used as barracks for the mujahideen and many of the ancient cave paintings have been blackened by soot from cooking fires and wartime graffiti (one reads “Commander Din Mohammad and Commander Homayun from Jauzjan Province were here, April 20 1995”). Water seepage resulting from drainage problems have caused further damage. There are also fears that Islamic fighters may have defaced the Buddhist paintings.
Herat. The Gawahar Shad Mausoleum (16th century) has been damaged. When the area was fought over by the Russians and the mujahideen in the late 1980s the surrounding walls and trees were destroyed, exposing the tiled dome to windy weather. This is believed to have damaged the painted interior of the dome. The nearby minarets (14th-15th century), with the finest example of Timurid work, are also badly damaged. One was destroyed during the fighting, and two others are now tilted to an alarming degree and have small holes. Herat was captured by Taliban forces a year ago, but since last November there have been air attacks by Dostum’s forces.
Kabul. The Bagh-i-Bala palace of Amir Abdur Rahman (nineteenth century) was in good condition until recently, but there are fears that in the past few weeks it may have been damaged by the Taliban. One source claims that it is being “badly treated by the commander of security billeted there.” The Pavilion of Amir Abdur Rahman (nineteenth century) was hit by a rocket. The historic Babar Garden (16th century) has been destroyed, its trees being cut for firewood. The Bala Hisar fortress (continuously used since the Iron Age) was occupied by Dostum’s forces in 1992 and became the centre of fierce fighting with mujahideen two years later, when it was badly damaged by shelling. Although a closed military base, observations through a telephoto lens suggest extensive damage. The fort is currently occupied by the Taliban.
Hadda. The Buddhist site (2nd-7th century) was destroyed during fighting between the Russians and mujahideen in the 1980s. The area is heavily mined. Plundering continues and no trace of the exquisite Gandhara statuary survives.
Gazni. The palace of Sultan Masud (12th century) has not been examined by experts because the area is mined. From a distance it appears that the long decorated marble inscription may have been removed.
Politically, the situation in Afghanistan is as unstable as ever. The Taliban ultra-Fundamentalists control most of the south of the country (including Herat and Hadda) and seized the capital Kabul on 27 September. To the north, power is in the hands of Uzbek warlord General Abdul Dostum, military chief in the former communist government. He has formed an alliance with other militia leaders, including General Ahmed Masood, and they are taking the offensive in trying to push back the Taliban from Kabul. Peace now looks as far away as ever. When it finally arrives, this troubled land will find that much of its heritage has been lost forever.
Originally appeared in The Art Newspaper as 'Aghanistan’s [sic] sites devastated'